A Reader Goes to Paris
Finally
Dear Reader,
This month’s missive is longer than usual, but I think you will enjoy it.
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Katy
A potential consequence of visiting a place you have longed to see for more than 40 years is disappointment, especially a place as romanticized as Paris. However, I am happy to say that was not the case for us. There were aspects of the trip that were disappointing. I was disappointed that I was not given supernatural reserves of strength and energy. (A dear friend calls me a “delicate flower.”) I was disappointed in several shopping recommendations enthusiastically made by online influencers. I was disappointed not to make it to Palais Garnier or E. Delherin. But it’s hard for me to imagine how anyone could possibly be disappointed with The Louvre, Notre Dame, The Musee d’Orsay, etc.
Due to my reading rut, I didn’t get to the books I’d hoped to read before our trip, but my past reading sufficed. The better part of a lifetime consuming fiction, history, biography, and memoir, provided all the background knowledge and anticipation necessary to enjoy the visit.
Following are the highlights of our trip, bookish content included.
Saturday, May 2: Tuileries Gardens, La Bouquinistes
Arrived at CDG around noon and headed to Hotel Mayfair (highly recommend!). We had an afternoon snack in the Jardin des Tuileries across the street from our hotel, walked around the exterior of the Louvre, crossed the Seine and browsed the bouquinistes, returned to the right bank via Pont Neuf, stopped in at the biggest Sephora I’d ever seen (on Rue de Rivoli), and ate dinner at a pizza place near the hotel before an early bedtime.
Sunday, May 3: Sacre Coeur, Galleries Lafayette, Notre Dame, Shakespeare and Company
Took a taxi to Sacre Coeur and enjoyed the view of the city. Unfortunately, the line was too long for us to go in, so we walked back through Montmartre to Galleries Lafayette, stopping at the Halle Saint-Pierre bookshop (meh) and the Leonie Boulangerie for an excellent jambon beurre that we ate in a park nearby. You couldn’t “stir em with a stick” in Galleries Lafayette, but we persevered to the rooftop observation deck for another wonderful view of Paris and purchased a few small items in the souvenir department.
From there we took a taxi to Notre Dame. We were early for our timed entry, so we found a creperie nearby and shared a Nutella crepe. Notre Dame was extraordinary, of course, and I appreciated that there were roped off areas for prayer and an effort to maintain a certain level of quiet.
From Notre Dame we proceeded to Shakespeare and Company. This bookstore is a major tourist attraction for book lovers, and it is not large, so they were only letting in a few folks at a time, and there was a line (queue). I wouldn’t say I was disappointed, but we didn’t spend much time there, as the selection of books seemed to be essentially that of a typical English language bookstore, and it was too congested for me to browse comfortably. I purchased a lovely book of Shakespeare’s sonnets and the requisite tote bag, and moved on.
After wandering around in the vicinity for a little while longer, which included popping into The Abbey Bookshop for a moment, we headed back to the hotel to rest and then walked the short distance to La Florentin for dinner. Most of the patrons were tourists, but the decor was consistent with my bistro ideal, the service was good, and the food was tasty. I had duck confit for the first time. From there we walked to the Place Vendome and gazed at the Ritz, remembering Princess Diana, then headed back to the hotel for bed.
Monday, May 4: Louvre and Smith and Sons Books
I am still amazed that in all of our research and preparations for our trip we were never advised to avoid the Louvre on Mondays because it is the day most likely for the employees to strike. And strike they did that morning, so our tour was delayed for more than two hours. Our guide, Anise, who was like a character from a novel (studied art history at Saint Andrews, also a philosopher and poet, of slight build and dressed in all black with curly dark hair and big brown eyes) led our group of three Southern, middle-age couples (what are the chances?) to a nearby cafe for coffee and conversation while we waited. Very French.
Of course, when we entered the Louvre, so did thousands of other people who had been waiting, so it was extremely crowded. Anise said it was the largest crowd he had ever seen around the Mona Lisa, and I knew from seeing photos and videos online that it would be a crush. Our tour primarily focused on important French works, so paintings by David and Delacroix were highlighted. Anise also pointed out aspects of the palace itself that we would have missed without a guide, and he contributed to our appreciation of the sculpture we saw.
When the tour ended, we parted from our new friends and found a decent lunch on site. Then we headed to the Dutch masters. This was a good move because that area of the museum was much less crowded. And I was able to see a Vermeer!
There wasn’t time for much else that day except for the excellent Smith and Sons books, the long-established English language bookseller situated conveniently near our hotel, from which I purchased a lovely Everyman’s Pocket Classics edition of Stories of Books and Libraries. I wrote in my journal that “dinner was forgettable,” and indeed I don’t remember a thing about it.
Tuesday, May 5: Musee d’Orsay, Luxembourg Gardens, Saint Chapelle
We headed out early to get to the Musee d’Orsay before opening. It wasn’t as crowded as the Louvre, but it was busy. There was a special Renoir exhibit that was popular, and Van Gogh attracted a similar sized crowd, but other than that it was manageable. However, I was exhausted, and I wasn’t able to enjoy it as I might have done. I rushed through some sections that I regret not having given more attention to. Like most people, I love the Impressionists, but some of my favorite paintings were by one of their successors, Henri de Toulouse-Latrec.
The MO was probably my favorite thing in Paris. The artwork it houses, along with the impressive facility, and the excellent shop (I purchased this book.) makes for a sublime experience. If only I had had more strength and energy to enjoy it!
Somehow though, I managed to traipse through Saint-Germain-des-Pres, and I’m glad I did. We left the MO and headed to L’Entrecote for lunch on the recommendation of a friend. It was my favorite meal. A quintessential bistro frequented by both locals and tourists, the atmosphere was enjoyable and the steak frites (their speciality) were excellent. From there we went to a shop that was recommended several times by travel influencers I followed, Marin Montagut. It is a cute shop with unique gifts, but it is very small, and the professional online video and hype were misleading to me. Thankfully, I was able to find a lovely dish hand painted with the Eiffel Tower for my daughter.
Our map indicated the Luxembourg Gardens weren’t far away, so I girded my loins and kept walking. The park, much smaller than the Tuileries, was not crowded in the middle of Tuesday afternoon, and there was a light rain falling. It was beautiful and quite romantic.
I was at the end of my resources, so we took a cab to Saint-Chapelle. Our driver was one of several who did not speak English. Thankfully, my limited French was sufficient, and I was delighted to be able to tell him “Nous venons de Géorgie!” when “Georgia on My Mind” came on the radio. Saint-Chapelle is marvelous. The stained glass is breathtaking.
We went back to our hotel to rest and then walked the short distance to Angelina for dinner. I was too tired to care that it’s a tourist trap. My croque monsieur was delicious, and the cold and rainy day was perfect for enjoying the famous hot chocolate.
Wednesday, May 5: Bus Tour to Normandy
Brent’s scheduling a tour to Normandy this day was providential. The three-hour ride (on a quiet, comfortable bus) there and back provided much needed rest time for me. Our tour included Utah Beach and its museum, Pont du Hoc, and Omaha Beach and its American Cemetery. Seeing these sites and reflecting on the sacrifices made for the liberation of France were moving, as I expected. We were at the cemetery near closing and were able to hear taps. A fitting end to the excursion.
Thursday, May 6: Versailles, Eiffel Tower
We took the train to Versailles where once again we had an excellent guide. Having read a biography of Marie Antoinette and the historical fiction novel A Place of Greater Safety, among other works, I was familiar with the history and prepared for the grandeur, but our guide, a young native Parisian, was an expert, and his knowledge and enthusiasm significantly enhanced our visit. The highlight of the experience for me was seeing the queen’s bedroom wherein hung the prodigious painting, Marie Antoinette and Her Children by Elisabeth Vigee Le Brun, one of my favorite paintings of the entire trip. We took a tram ride through the seemingly infinite gardens, but once again, I was too tired to fully enjoy my surroundings.
So far, we had only seen the Eiffel Tower from a distance, so on our return trip we exited the train at Champs de Mars and had our photo op. The ascent to the top (nor to the second level) did not tempt me in the least.
Friday, May 7: Musee de Cluny and Shopping
I have a framed print in my study from the Musee de Cluny (a hand-me-down from my mom) that includes an image of The Lady and the Unicorn, so I was compelled to see it in real life. The museum of medieval art and history was the least crowded site we visited, and we appreciated it, but it was not the best stewardship of our limited time.
The rest of the day was dedicated to shopping. My favorite stores were the culinary shop A. Simon, which Brent found nearby as I wept upon arriving and discovering that E. Delherin was closed for V-E Day, and Le Bon Marche, the department store. In fact, the home section of Le Bon Marche was fantastic, and I now regret leaving as soon as we did to get to the aforementioned overrated influencer-peddled sites. However, we had dinner in Le Marais at Le Colimacon, which was good, and nearby we stumbled upon a pop-up shop with local artists selling handmade silk scarves, the perfect gift for my mom, so we were once again blessed by serendipity.
Lessons Learned
Do the touristy bus tour on the first day to get oriented to the city. This has been our practice in “new to us” cities in the past, but we neglected to do it in Paris. It would have been an easy way to ensure we saw the L’Arc de Triumph up close.
Trust my long-established taste and preferences, and pay less attention to influencers, especially in places where I’m familiar with things to do, like Paris.
Prioritize guidebooks and maps over social media for planning.
Let go of the temptation to try and see as much as possible, and embrace a slower pace and opportunities for serendipity. We thought we were doing this, but we must be even more diligent to do so in the future. We walked 5-6 miles a day, and that is simply too much for my constitution.
Would I Go Back?
Yes, but with so many places we want to see, it’s unlikely. However, there are many books of French history and literature on my TBR that will take me there in my imagination. My experience at the Musee d’Orsay inspired me to finally pick up Paris in Ruins, and I’m glad I waited to read it until I had seen the city. So, I’m already returning to Paris during my evening reading time!
What I’ve Been Reading Lately
Just before we left for Paris, I finished the second Jackson Brodie mystery novel by Kate Atkinson, One Good Turn. I should have known a good whodunnit was just what I needed to emerge from my reading rut! The twist at the end had me laughing out loud.
While we were in Paris, I started reading My Life in France by Julia Child, which has been on my TBR for quite a while. It was an interesting, easy read—perfect for winding down after a long day of walking and braving the crowds.
I finished The Tortoise and the Hare while relaxing on the beach during a Memorial Day trip to Jekyll Island on Monday. I’ve had a copy on the shelf for years, but I was prompted to read it now along with Ann Kennedy Smith. Her posts have greatly enhanced my enjoyment of this excellent mid twentieth century British novel.
Miscellany
If you struggle with reading poetry, as I tend to, Henry Oliver may help.
If you’re looking for a comfort read, Lucy Fuggle’s “Books full of kindness for weary souls” will deliver.
Petya K. Grady’s “How my commonplace notebook has enriched my experience of reading” has inspired me to make another attempt at keeping a commonplace notebook.
If you prefer a more structured approach to reading than I do, you may want to try “The New York Times’s Summer Reading Bucket List.”
Have you seen Mary Beard’s new book, Talking Classics? I’m placing it on my TBR for “fall semester.”
I’m probably late to the party here, but have you seen the Penguin Classics Cover Generator?
We’ve watched three movies recently that I wholeheartedly recommend: The Sheep Detectives (95% fresh!) , Rental Family, and Pressure. I’m so happy for Brendan Fraser’s resurgence!
Glimpse from Paris
If you would like to see more photos and video from my trip, you can check out the saved stories on my Instagram page.
Have you been to Paris? Please share a favorite experience.
If you haven’t been to Paris yet, please share a favorite work of French literature, biography, or history.
Returning from my Ukraine mission trip in 2004, we had an overnight in Paris. We dropped our bags at our hotel, raced back to CDG to pick up the metro that would take us to the tower. I guess I got lost in conversation as we made our way from the metro to the tower because all of the sudden, there we were and there it was! Brilliant and sparkling against the night sky…it was breathtaking. For a moment, I actually forgot how to breathe. Didn’t forget how to cry, though. Tears slipped freely down my face…overwhelmed by the emotions and physical drain of the completed mission work and the beauty of that moment. It’s as vivid after all this time as if it had been yesterday.
This is a wonderful reference for those who have never been! And…I adore my scarf! 💕